"motorcycle" oil and regular car oil...

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Skier
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#1 Unread post by Skier »

More than a few topics on this. Here's a decently lengthy one, though:

http://totalmotorcycle.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?t=16330
[url=http://www.motoblag.com/blag/]Practicing the dark and forgotten art of using turn signals since '98.[/url]
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Ian522
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#2 Unread post by Ian522 »

cool thanks. Guess I should have not been such a lazy arse and done a search first.
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Sev
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#3 Unread post by Sev »

MotoF150 wrote:PLEASE! lets not get started and fight about this subject! Im getting sooo sick and tired of explaining this, automotive oil is formulated as a crankcase, combustion oil, motorcycle oil is formulated as both a combustion, crankcase oil, AND a transmission oil, AND a wet cltuch oil. There are too many more differenences to explain, I suggest go to www.amsoil.com and on the home page click on " The White Pages Of Motorcycle Oil" and that will explain everything you need to know.
Question...

Why are they formulated as combustion oils? I mean, in a four stroke engine (like what we're talking about here) it is ideal to NOT have oil enter the combustion chamber. In fact it's a BAD thing to have it happen. Hence the standard 3 ring design for the four stroke piston - combustion, oil control, oil scraping. All three of which are designed to prevent the oil from burning.

In a two stroke the oil is injected into the engine with the fuel/air mixture and as such is very different from four stroke oil as it needs to have different properties.

Not to mention the fact that there are bikes with the following: separately sealed transmission, separately sealed clutch, and dry clutches. All of which require/use different types of oil (or none at all).

For someone who claims to be so smart...
Of course I'm generalizing from a single example here, but everyone does that. At least I do.

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niterider
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#4 Unread post by niterider »

I have always used what ever engine oils I wanted, as long as the grade is close to what is recommended for my bikes and never had any problems. I never use addetives in my oil. Some addetives in the fuel, rarely.
1993 750 Vulcan
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ear shave, pod filters
rear turn signal relocation
lowered rear 2" soft tail
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Britjoe
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#5 Unread post by Britjoe »

On newer bikes the clutch slip is ridiculous on car motor oil
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niterider
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#6 Unread post by niterider »

They are probably using different clutch materials in the newer bikes.
1993 750 Vulcan
one seater
ear shave, pod filters
rear turn signal relocation
lowered rear 2" soft tail
converted to manuel cam chain tensioner
horn relocation
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Britjoe
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#7 Unread post by Britjoe »

I think that could be it, and the fact newer sports bikes tend to have more power, more horeses
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Skier
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#8 Unread post by Skier »

Britjoe wrote:On newer bikes the clutch slip is ridiculous on car motor oil
Which bikes, which car oils? From oil analysis from Blackstone Labs, some of the bike-specific oil I've used has more slippery additives than the car oils I use.
[url=http://www.motoblag.com/blag/]Practicing the dark and forgotten art of using turn signals since '98.[/url]
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niterider
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#9 Unread post by niterider »

The claimed horsepower for the 93 750 twin vulcan is 66 hp @ 7500 rpm.
What do the newer sport bikes claim?
1993 750 Vulcan
one seater
ear shave, pod filters
rear turn signal relocation
lowered rear 2" soft tail
converted to manuel cam chain tensioner
horn relocation
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flynrider
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#10 Unread post by flynrider »

The 600s claim just over 100 hp, and it goes up from there to the 180 hp (claimed) range for the 'busas and ZX-14s.
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