Poppygene, do you know if it's shim over or under the bucket? My 650 has it under the buckets, and you have to remove (or carefully set aside) the cams to get them out. It's great for High rpm durability (even though it redlines at just 9000 ) but a pain to adjust.

I guest the shim on the top of the buckets would be just a cover removal, turn crank bolt, measure, pull shims, and replace, right?


I'm just asking for future reference, not to be a pain . I kindof like that particular bike, but know nothing about it.

Vulcanman500 just has locknut and screw adjusters.

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Ride safe...God bless!
-Ron

Actually the flow from the pitcock is not real full, it is more a trinkle. What I don't understand is when you first start it it runs real good and no hesitation and after it warms up it hesitates and will only idle. When you go to give it gas it dies.

Tell me this - after the bike's warmed up, will it run at all w/ the choke on or off ... or doesn't it matter?

Ron, that's basically how you do it for shim over bucket ... much easier!

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“People demand freedom of speech as a compensation for the freedom of thought which they seldom use.”
- Soren Kierkegaard (19th century Danish philosopher)

Yeah, the 800 has an over-bucket type, Ron. They're really easy to adjust - the tappet is spring-loaded and slides out of the way to replace the shim, then you just release the tappet and it slides right back in place. The hardest part is getting access, especially with the rear cylinder. You pretty much have to disassemble the top half of the bike to get the valve covers off.
My 1100 has the same system your 650 has.


Anyway, back to glarkins' troubles. What the bike is running on during a cold start is the pilot jet and fast-idle circuits. Then after it warms up and you open the throttle, the main jet takes over supplying the additional fuel to the mix. This is what makes me think the main jet is clogged up, my theory being that not enough fuel is getting through the jet in proportion to the air. If you remove the float bowl from the carb, the main jet is right there and easy to remove. Just loosen the locknut and unscrew it. If it's the stock jet it should have "135" stamped on it. I'd pull it out and soak it in carb cleaner for a couple hours.
As to the petcock, it's possible it isn't flowing enough fuel. I'd disassemble it again and if I couldn't find anything I could fix, I'd just replace it with a new one.

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Let me get this straight... it's one down and four up, right?

Thanks, I am sorry to send all of the messages, but your response sounds like it could be it. Anything special I need to know when I take out the jet? Thanks again. Can I do that without removing the carburator?

Hey, it's not a problem - the only thing we'll miss is being able to see that big grin on your face when it all works right!

Yeah, you do need to pull the carb loose from the intake boot, but you don't have to remove the throttle cable system from the carb. If you're lucky enough to have a set of long, metric, ball-end Allen keys you can loosen the clamp on the carb boot a lot easier. It's right under the backbone of the frame and difficult to get to with a regular key. What you want is to be able to rotate the carb enough to get to the four screws that hold the bowl on and to see and remove that beautiful brass jet. When you put the carb back on make certain the carb throat fits fully inside the boot and that the clamp is snuggged up.
That's all I can think of for now... let us know how it goes!

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Let me get this straight... it's one down and four up, right?

Thanks Poppygene: It will be a real big smile, I assure you. thanks for all of your help. I will let you know, how it comes out, plan to work on it this weekend, if not sooner (could be of those late night projects). You are right about the allen wrench, it is hard to get to and turn, but your recommendation will help. I get a litttle nervious when I remove the jets and must put back in the right place. Thanks